Jun 17 - 30, Day-by-Day Breakdown

Jun 16 - Seattle-Tacoma Airport to Tukwila, WA. 4 miles. First Flat.

Jun 17 - Tukwila to Skykomish, WA. 83.2 miles. Met the Tour Group. Saw bike wth tag, "I'm Bambi, from MA". Thought, wouldn't it be amazing if it turned out to be my storyteller friend Bambi Good from Chestnut Hill? Talked to Jack Kerouac conspiracy theorist in bar.

Jun 18 - Skykomish to Lincoln Rocks SP, WA. 81 miles. Went over Stevens Pass. Think the Wash. Highway Dept. has been busy making it higher. Bypassed Wenatchee because campground in Confluence Park is always under water due to flooding, and to avoid the Goat-Head thorns, which will go through even a mountain bike tire.

Jun 19 - Orondo to Hartline, WA. 71.4 miles. Temp over 90 degrees. Did stupid thing--left Waterville without getting food. Met Michelle, the Sweep for the Tour Group, who warned me that there was nothing for 40 miles. She was right--the store in Douglas that I had been counting on, was closed. Ate last 3 Trader Joe's cookies that Annie had packed for me to take on the flight at 10 miles. Ate large navel orange that I found at top of Pine Canyon Pass at 20 miles (in the bottom of the Grand Coulee). Bambi from the Tour Group (not my friend, but a nice young woman from Somerville) showed up. Asked her if she had a spare power bar. She generously gave me some of her snacks. Even though there was no one behind her from the Tour Group, not even Michelle, she wanted to be left alone. So I reluctantly pedaled on. Worried about her the whole way to Dry Falls and Coulee City, as I didn't see anyone from her Tour Group. Even asked Christian Motorcycle Gang at convenience store if they were going West. Figured they could check on her.

Jun 20 - Hartline to Reardon, WA. 67 miles. Very hot, slow going, lots of tire trouble. Had breakfast in Almira at "Sunnyside Cafe". Two nice ladies that reminded me of the movie "Waitress". Asked them if I had missed the breakfast rush, and they said, "No, you are the breakfast rush. The farmers are all out on their tractors already."

Jun 21 - Reardon, WA to Coeur D'Alene, ID. 65.8 miles. The Ironman Triathlon was in Town, so prices were way up. Paid $16.00 to sleep in a "campground" that was really a floodlit patch of weeds between the Interstate and the Lake Drive. The Owner's flock of pet ducks helped to balance out the truck and motorcycle noise. Talked with Frankie, a construction worker who has been camping there "while his girlfriend cools down". He offers me a 'High Gravity' beer, and tells me that Coeur D'Alene is being turned into another Vail, for people who missed out on Colorado.

Jun 22 - Coeur D'Alene to Clark Fork, ID. 87.4 miles. The whole upper part of Idaho has been turned into a fun park for Tourists. It's like Berkshire County with low humidity. Paid $15.00 to "camp" behind a Motel by the well-lit gazebo. The neighbor, who looks just like "Papa Smurf", drives his Wagoneer with the spavined front-end up and down the shared gravel driveway on a serious of mysterious errands. Unlike me, his horses, which are grazing two feet away from my head, merely snort every time he does this.

Jun 23 - Clark Fork, ID to Plains, MT. 87.4 miles. Another big Swim Meet at the Pool. The crowd helped to block the noise of the freight trains, which typically consist of 3 locomotives and several hundred cars. The first time I was there, in 1992, I had unthinkingly set up my tent right by one of the lampposts. A huge thunderstorm came up, so I went into the locker room and was reading, when there was an incredible noise like a nuclear detonation right overhead. Lightning had struck the lamppost next to my tent. I stared at the now-tilted post in total bemusement, and muttered, "Well, at least I won't have the light shining down on me all night." Now, through the throng of campers and RV's, I could just barely see that lamppost, which was still tilted .

Jun 24 - Plains to Missoula, MT. 93.7 miles. Stopped at fabled town of Perma, which essentially consists of the "Old Perma Store". Storekeeper a friendly string bean of an old feller. He stocks cranberry juice because he drinks it himself. Told me he grew up on Jamestown Island, which was a seven mile ferry ride from Newport, RI, back during the Second World War. Got to Missoula only to discover no more Bike Hostel. Had to stay at KOA--tent sites now $26.75. Talked to support guys from Tour Group at Internet Cafe. Found out that Bambi was okay, but they felt criticized by my concern.

Jun 25 - Missoula to Avon, MT. 89.7 miles. Stopped at Bike Shop and had chain replaced. Also fixed front of bike seat, which had been eroding away like the Sphinx's nose. Rode on I-90 (yes, the Interstate, it's the only road there) to Garrison Junction, then got off highway to take RT 12 directly east towards MacDonald Pass and Helena.

Jun 26 - Avon to Deep Creek Canyon, MT. 84.2 miles. Temperature fell to 30 degrees during the night. Had flakes of frost on the tent while packing up. Went over MacDonald Pass, elevation 6146 feet, which means I have crossed both the Continental Divide and the Rocky Mountains. It is only a few miles up the pass, but 11 very steep miles (8% grades) down. Met Tour Group again in Townsend. Invited to stay with them, but Boss Lady upset by my comments to her guys in Missoula. Partially unpacked camping gear and took shower. Very hot out, and sunburn was painful. Decided to head out again, after Internet break at the Library, and made it to State Forest Picnic area in Deep Creek Canyon. During the night a large animal came by and checked me out. Wasn't sure if it was a bear or a deer, so I lay very still in my tent.

Jun 27 - Deep Creek Canyon to Two Dot, MT. 74.9 miles. Night not as cold. Have been carrying 3 water bottles, to avoid dehydration, but still didn't have enough water in the morning. Could have easily drunk 1 or 2 more quarts. Took four hours to go the 16 miles from White Sulphur Springs to Checkerboard, because of the headwind and two flats. The tire I patched with a piece of soda bottle plastic and duct tape gave out after 526 miles. The tube only lasted another mile. I walked the bike against the wind for quite a few miles, determined not to go back. Staggered into the Checkerboard Bar, and got a very friendly reception. Went on, bicycling across Montana by moonlight. Was completely alone, could see 7 to 10 miles in any direction, and there was not one single light shining.

Jun 28 - Two Dot to the Rimrocks, outside of Billings, MT. 99 miles. Took 8 and a quarter hours of pedaling. Too tired (and dark) to ride down into the Canyon, so camped on the Rim.

Jun 29 - Rimrocks to Billings, MT. 26.3 miles. Went down into city, and took care of errands: bike shop (new spare tire, 2 spare tubes, another patch kit, adjust shifter cables), Drug Store, Post Office. Stayed in Billings to rest up and avoid the heat. During the day the temperature was up to 104 degrees!

Jun 30 - Billings to Lame Deer, MT. 105.3 miles! Was afraid to leave Billings because of heat, but sky hazed over, and I just kept going along on I-90 (yes, the Interstate, it's the only road there). Flat in Hardin--thin piece of wire right through tire into tube. Patched tube but it went flat again--holes opened up by valve. Went on through Crow Agency, and got off I-90 to take RT 212 heading directly East, at the Custer Battlefield. Rode on by moonlight again through two different Indian Reservations.

Summary: 2 weeks and exactly Eleventy 'Leven (1,111) miles.